As the winds were very light and our departure through Denver lock would allow us enough tide to get through Kings Lynn and the Yarmouth Coastguard weather report was good, I opted to cruise on today. Once we were at the No8 buoy, we found the North-Easterly 3/4 breeze and the Wash open to this and getting choppy as we anchored within sight of the tide gauge by No 5 buoy in Cork Hole to await the tide.
With favourable reports from an incoming skipper we left the shelter of Cork Hole we began to feel the waves that built up to at least moderate sea and the breeze turned easterly at force five. I had only allowed enough time to take the shallower route at the wash entrance from Woolpack to Bridgirdle buoys and then across the Stifkey Overfalls and, as we turned East along this route at about 5.00pm, the waves were becoming so high in a moderate to rough sea with the wind now F5 that they broke over our cabin roof and occasionally over our windscreen so as to splash us in the bridge.
Di was frightened and our tender was coming loose so I had to deal with that as well. Before 8.00pm, we were within reach of Wells Harbour Radio on Channel 12 and the harbour-master advised us to follow the fishing boat "Ma Freen" into the harbour as we were early on the spring tide for even our draft of a metre and were able to stay at Wells Harbour Quay for the night
On we awoke to a still and sunny day with the winds very light. I was concerned to get information and advice from the lock-keeper and so we took on water and then left the moorings early and cruised over to the lock landing stage. I found out that the recommended departure time of 11.30 through Denver Lock would allow us to get through Kings Lynn as well before we ran out of water. The weather forecast was for north-easterlies force 3 or 4 and I was concerned about this but the lock-keeper was not very forthcoming and another experienced skipper doubted the forecast and felt that the weather would be all right. This was supported by the Yarmouth Coastguard report that spoke of "ripple seas" and "no swell" in his morning broadcast. I was the first through the lock at 11.30am and was followed by several other boats including "Kayber" who made better way and overtook me in the Lynn Channel.
By 1.30pm I was at the No 8 buoy and the breeze was definitely NE 3/4 and I was concerned as the Wash reacts badly to even light winds from that quarter as the waves can come straight in from the North Sea. I was following this other experienced skipper who was reassuring me nevertheless. Soon the channel became choppy and then I anchored the Paxton Princess within sight of the tide gauge by No 5 buoy in Cork Hole to await the tide. If we were to be going round to Wells, we would not want to be hanging around at the Wells Fairway buoy and so I was killing time and judging our arrival time to coincide with the earliest time of entry. We tried fishing as we waited there and caught nothing but it took the girls mind off things. The boat was quite sheltered facing away from the waves until the tide began to turn and then we took them abeam. Even so, the family were quite comfortable and coping well. I was in a quandary about making the trip but, upon inquiry, an incoming motor yacht reported a slight sea and only a little swell and, further encouraged by the skipper who had anchored up with us, we decided to set off.
As soon as we left the shelter of Cork Hole we began to feel the waves that built up to at least moderate sea and the breeze turned easterly at force five. I had only allowed enough time to take the shallower route at the wash entrance from Woolpack to Bridgirdle buoys and then across the Stifkey Overfalls and, as we turned East along this route at about 5.00pm, the waves were becoming so high in a moderate to rough sea that they broke over our cabin roof and occasionally over our windscreen so as to splash us in the bridge. We had both the wind and tide against us and it was very hard going and, with hindsight, we should have turned back. Diana was very frightened and I did not know what to do for the best, but I concentrated on navigation and ensuring that we were using as much water as was there in the best channel. Then the inflatable dinghy started coming adrift as the tender's for'd cleat unscrewed and it was hanging until it punctured and sagged. I put Daniel on the helm and, working with boat-hook and ropes, tied it up after a fashion and then helped with the helm.
At least we were running into the sea but the slamming was still worrying Di who threatened never to come again. We were then managing as the sea seemed to be a little calmer but had passed the point of no-return as we went over Stiffkey Overfalls at 7.30pm and the sea became worse again as we turned slightly south of east. All this time, I had been trying to raise the coastguard on the VHF radio originally to put out a standard safety message but then to ask for advice but to no avail. This did little to reassure me or the family. Before 8.00pm, we were within reach of Wells Harbour Radio on Channel 12 and the harbour-master advised us to follow the fishing boat "Ma Freen" into the harbour as we were early on the spring tide for even our draft of a metre. This we did, thankful that we did not have to hang around in that sea for too long. In fact we had cut the corner inside the fairway buoy a bit too much in order to minimise our time abeam to the easterly sea and they seemed a bit worried about us.
When we tied up at the Wells Harbour Quay, the harbour-master told us that the coastguard and Bacton radio had been trying to reply to our call and assumed that we had got radio problems. We were all pleased to have made the harbour where all was so tranquil that it was by marked contrast. I had shared the worries of the crew this time but the navigation was spot on and we were really always in control. One problem was the water that we were taking in via the ventilation slots in the starboard bow which is far too close to the water-line for comfort. I will have to change this design at some point. We were able to stay at Wells Harbour Quay for the night which was most convenient but had to move for a time to allow the coasters to come in as Wells is still a working port.